Euro Caffé

The famously wealthy denizens of Beverly Hills have the same primordial urge to appear stylish and sophisticated as the residents of any other affluent American suburb. But the Beverly Hills zeitgeist is unique in its pathological focus on faux Italian, a condition that results when there are too many USC alumni taking too many leisurely Italian vacations within a three-mile radius. (How else can one explain the presence in central Beverly Hills of such ersatz trattorias as Caffe Roma, Da Pasquale, E. Baldi, Enoteca Drago, Il Fornaio, Il Pastaio, Il Tramezzino, La Scala, Piccolo Paradiso, and Prego?)

This particular strand of Beverly Hills inanity has had one positive consequence: the restaurants, the retail and fashion industry along Rodeo Drive, and the inherent appeal of Los Angeles have lured a regiment of Italians to Beverly Hills, and these Italians take their coffee, kibitz, and watch soccer at Euro Caffé.

A large, commanding copper Elektra espresso machine resides inside the window where the owner, Vartan Kemanjian, serves espresso as good as can be found stateside. Using Danesi beans, Vartan's espresso is rich and thick, yet it possesses that soft nutty sweetness unique to superior Italian espresso. (Even the Hollywood barista cult hero Donny Morrison, now at Sabor y Cultura, was awed by the quality of Euro Caffé’s espresso.)

Euro Caffé is an Italian soccer fan’s paradise, as its two large televisions show Serie A matches, and the café is decorated with soccer memorabilia. Considering the Laimbeeresque performance of the Italian soccer team in last year’s World Cup, the celebratory photographs of the winners tend to grate. That is, until I prendo un caffé outside with my New York Times. Then only the Bush administration grates.

Euro Caffé
9559 “Little” Santa Monica Blvd.
Beverly Hills

(310) 274-9070